90-Gallon Low-Tech Iwagumi Aquascape (Beginner)
A 90-gallon Iwagumi: a few stones, one carpet, and a great deal of deliberate empty water. It is a proper display tank with room to build depth. No CO2 and no dosing regime — slower to fill in, far more forgiving, and cheaper to run. 1 plant species, Seiryu Stone, and 5 livestock groups checked against each other for compatibility — every quantity below sized to 90 gallons and every plant chosen for a beginner.
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Everything below is generated for this 90-gallon Iwagumi build — 1 plant, 5 livestock groups, and gear sized to 90 gallons. The studio does the same for your tank, free.
Hardscape — what to buy and how to place it
Seiryu Stone is blue-grey, sharply angular, cut through with white calcite veins that run the same way on every piece. Seiryu is a carbonate rock, so it slowly raises KH, GH and pH. That suits most community fish and is worth knowing if you are keeping soft-water species — test your KH a fortnight after filling rather than assuming your tap numbers still apply. Keep every stone’s veins running in the same direction; it is the single thing that makes a group read as one broken rock rather than several unrelated ones.
At 90 gallons, plan on seven or more pieces in clearly unequal sizes. An odd count is easier to compose, and one piece should obviously lead — a group of similar-sized pieces spread evenly across the tank is the most common way a first scape goes flat.
Set the stones before a single plant goes in, and view the tank from where you will actually sit rather than from directly above. Bury a third of each stone so it looks like it grew there instead of being placed there, and angle the faces slightly toward the front glass so light catches them.
Substrate
Aqua soil or capped organic base, capped with fine natural gravel/sand cap, built to about 2.5–3.5" and sloped higher at the back. A nutrient base keeps low-tech plants fed; cap with fine gravel. Slope higher at the back.
A capped nutrient base is the engine of a low-tech tank, so the one rule is to leave it alone. Vacuum the cap, never the layer beneath it — driving a siphon down into the base releases everything it has been quietly storing and can gas a tank in an afternoon.
The whole floor of this tank is Dwarf Four Leaf Clover, so the substrate contour IS the layout — there is no background planting to hide a flat bed. Build a real slope from front to back and let the carpet run up and over it; that rise is what gives an otherwise open tank its depth. Plant in small clumps a couple of centimetres apart and let them spread sideways to meet, rather than packing them in to look finished on day one.
At 90 gallons the substrate is a real purchase, not an afterthought — budget for it early and buy it all at once, because a bed topped up later with a different bag rarely matches.
Plant list & placement
Plant back to front, into damp substrate with the tank only part-filled — it is far easier than fighting buoyancy in a full tank. Dwarf Four Leaf Clover is the tallest thing in this plan at around 2", so it sets your back row and everything else steps down in front of it.
Nothing in this plan grows quickly, which is the point — it means very little trimming, but it also means the tank takes longer to look established and gives algae a wider opening in the first two months. Keep the light modest until the plants are visibly growing.
Every plant here is a hardy, forgiving species. None of them need CO2 to survive, and all of them recover from being neglected for a fortnight — which is the right way to start, because the tank should be teaching you the routine rather than punishing you for missing it.
Stocking
This stocking is built to spread through the tank rather than crowd one layer: Ember Tetra and Congo Tetra share the open middle water, Honey Gourami works the surface and Pygmy Cory works every level. A tank where every fish occupies the same band looks half-empty even when it is fully stocked, and the fish themselves compete more.
Keep Ember Tetra in 8 or more, Pygmy Cory in 8 or more and Congo Tetra in 6 or more. These are not decorative numbers — a shoaling fish kept in threes spends its life stressed, colours down and hides, and people then conclude the species is dull. The counts in the list above are already scaled to this tank.
Honey Gourami is the centrepiece. Gentle, smaller and far more peaceful than dwarf gourami; great centerpiece.
Red Racer Nerite Snail is the clean-up crew, and in a planted tank it earns its place — grazing biofilm and soft algae off the hardscape and leaves faster than you can. Add it last, once the tank has some algae to eat, and drip-acclimatise rather than dumping the bag in.
- Ember Tetra — Keep Ember Tetra in a group of at least 8 — kept in ones or twos they get stressed, shy, and nippy.
- Honey Gourami — Honey Gourami is territorial/solitary — best kept as a single specimen.
- Pygmy Cory — Keep Pygmy Cory in a group of at least 8 — kept in ones or twos they get stressed, shy, and nippy.
- Congo Tetra — Keep Congo Tetra in a group of at least 6 — kept in ones or twos they get stressed, shy, and nippy.
The largest fish here is roughly 3.8× the length of the smallest, which is the point at which size alone starts to matter — that gap was checked against mouth size and feeding behaviour, not just temperament. Every pairing was run through Skapelab’s compatibility engine and anything returning even a caution was swapped out rather than published. Check any substitution you make there before you buy.
Equipment
| Category | Recommendation | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Filtration | Eheim Professionel 4+ 600 | ~$380–470 |
| Lighting | Finnex Stingray 2 48" | ~$46–68 |
| Heating | Oase BioMaster Thermo 600 (integrated) | Included with Oase BioMaster Thermo 600 (~$360–450) |
| Substrate | CaribSea Super Naturals Torpedo Beach Sand | ~$18–28 |
| Fertilizer | Seachem Flourish Comprehensive 250ml | ~$8–14 |
| Testkit | API Freshwater Master Test Kit | ~$28–42 |
| Water treatment | Seachem Prime 500ml | ~$12–20 |
| Bacteria | Seachem Stability 250ml | ~$8–14 |
What the first two months look like
| Week 1 | Hardscape in, planted, filled and running with no livestock. Start the photoperiod short — six hours is plenty — because the plants are not yet growing fast enough to use more, and the surplus goes to algae. |
| Weeks 2–4 | Cycling, and the ugly phase. Brown diatom dust on the glass and hardscape is normal in a new tank and passes on its own once silicates are used up. Some plants will melt back and regrow in their submersed form — that is conversion, not death, so trim the mush and leave the roots. Do not stock until ammonia and nitrite both read zero. |
| Weeks 4–6 | Stocking begins, a few animals at a time with a fortnight and a water test between additions. The carpet should be visibly running now; resist raising the light to hurry it. |
| Months 2–3 | The scape fills in and the routine settles into the schedule below. On a tank this size, get the maintenance rhythm fixed now — a large tank is very stable until it is not, and by then it is a large problem. |
Care schedule
| Daily | Feed lightly — as much as they clear in a minute or two — and take ten seconds to count heads and look at the plants. |
| Weekly | 27% water change — about 24 gallons — using a tap-fed water changer — at this volume buckets stop being realistic. Wipe the glass, vacuum the open substrate only, and dose a light all-in-one fertiliser. Trimming is occasional rather than weekly at this growth rate. |
| Monthly | Rinse filter media in old tank water — never under the tap, which kills the bacteria colony you spent six weeks growing. Test KH, GH, pH and nitrate. On a tank this size also check the seals and the stand for damp, because a slow leak here is a floor problem, not a tank problem. |
| Every few months | Thin the slow growers back hard once or twice a year, divide anything that has outgrown its spot, and top up root tabs around the heavy feeders. |
Make it yours
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